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Care Guide: Monstera Deliciosa

So, you've got yourself a Monstera Deliciosa and you want to make sure it's thriving, right? Let me share some tips that I've picked up over the years caring for mine.

First off, this plant is a total winner - super tropical and low maintenance, they can totally transform a room. I’ve got a big one that started as a tiny baby, and it's been a journey watching it grow! So let's dive in.




Origin of the Monstera Deliciosa: A Brief Background

Before we delve into care tips, it's essential to understand the origins and characteristics of your Monstera. Monstera deliciosa, commonly known as the Swiss Cheese Plant or Fruit Salad Plant, hails from the tropical regions of Central and South America. The name "Monstera" is derived from the Latin word “monstrum,” meaning "strange" or "unusual," likely a nod to the plant's unique, perforated leaves. The species name “deliciosa” refers to the plant's edible fruit, known as "monster fruit," which can be found alongside its distinct leaf shape.



Light Requirements for your Monstera

Monstera deliciosa thrives in bright, indirect light. While it can tolerate low light, its growth may slow, and its leaves may not develop as many fenestrations (those signature holes). In nature, these plants grow under dense tree canopies in rainforests, which filter the light, allowing the plants to receive bright but indirect sunlight.

Indoors, place your monstera near your sunniest window. Some direct sunlight is okay, but prolonged exposure can burn the leaves. In my experience, monsteras love the warm, wet summers, so I often move mine outside under a covered patio where it thrives in dappled light. They will strain towards the light if they are in medium or lower light areas, so be sure to rotate your plant to encourage even growth.


Where do I put my Monstera?

For the best results, place your monstera near a window that gets plenty of natural light. An east or west-facing window is ideal, but a south-facing window with a sheer curtain to filter the light works too. You can also use artificial grow lights, but ensure they’re not too intense, as this can cause leaf burn.



Growth Habits & Features

Aerial Roots: What Are Those Brown Things Growing Out of My Monstera?

Aerial roots help monsteras absorb moisture and nutrients from the air. They’re a natural and healthy part of the plant, so there’s no need to remove them. You can either mist them to keep them moist or tuck them into the soil. They also help the plant cling onto things like larger trees in their natural habitat and climb upwards - they are a vine after all! You may notice these will grab onto things like your walls if you are not careful so just be mindful if you are renting!


Why does my Monstera leaves not have any holes?

The iconic holes and splits in monstera leaves are called fenestrations. Younger plants don’t have these yet, but they develop as the plant matures. If your mature plant isn’t producing fenestrated leaves, it might need more light. While monsteras can sometimes survive in low light, they may unfurl solid leaves that lack those characteristic holes.


Do I need a moss pole?

Yes - either a moss pole or something similar (ie a branch, stake etc). Mature monsteras benefit from a support pole to climb, mimicking their natural growth habit - in the jungle they will find a nice sturdy tree to climb!


A moss pole not only supports the plant but also encourages aerial roots to grow, making the plant look more attractive and easier to manage, plus it will prevent it from falling over! Monstera will also grow much larger leaves when they are climbing - another benefit of a pole!

Also as mentioned above, the aerial roots will try to cling onto something, so may as well give them something useful!





Watering Requirements for your Monstera

Monsteras are relatively low-maintenance when it comes to watering. During the active growing season (spring and summer), you'll find that you'll probably need to be watering more often, but always adjust based on your plant's environment and needs.

It's not a good idea to stick to a watering schedule, instead, use your finger to test the soil and watch for signs of a thirsty plant. Schedules don't allow for changes in temperature or conditions for example, if your plant is outdoors during hot summer days, you may need to water every second day, compared to if it is inside in a cool spot with no direct light!


Should I bottom water my Monstera?

Bottom watering, where the plant absorbs water from the pot's drainage holes, is an optional method. It can be helpful for plants recovering from root rot or to prevent fungus gnats by keeping the topsoil dry. Personally, I recommend shower-watering above any other kind of method, which involves showering your plant either in your bathroom or outside with the hose. This not only gives the plant a huge drink like natural rain, it can also help to clean the leaves of dust and pests.


Recognising Signs of Underwatering and Overwatering

Underwatering is generally safer than overwatering, as these plants are prone to root rot so always err on the side of less-is-more!

  • Underwatering: If the soil is dry several inches down (just pop your finger in to test!), the pot feels light, or the leaves are drooping or turning yellow, your plant likely needs water. In severe cases, the soil may shrink away from the sides of the pot. Gently break up the soil with a stake before watering to ensure the roots can absorb moisture.

  • Overwatering: Overwatered monstera plants may exhibit yellowing leaves, brown patches, wilting leaves, a mushy stem, a mouldy smell, or black and mushy roots. To avoid overwatering, ensure your plant's soil has good drainage and always let the top inches dry out before watering again.



Ideal Humidity & Temperature for your Monstera

Monstera deliciosa thrives in warm temperatures, ideally between 20-30°C. It can tolerate occasional dips, but anything below 5°C can cause damage and general unhappiness. Avoid exposing your monstera to cold drafts or sudden temperature changes (like that aircon vent in summer!).

While monsteras appreciate high humidity, they can adapt to average household humidity. If you don’t want to use a humidifier, misting the leaves in the morning can help. Monitor for spider mites in drier, stagnant indoor air and treat as soon as you find any evidence of an infestation!


Pests to watch for

Monsteras are prone to Thrips and Rust, more than other plants. Other common pests include mealybugs and spidermites, particularly if it is positioned in a room that does not have good ventilation. I've written a whole other article about common pests on houseplants here, but Monsteras also attract two other kinds of pests which are not that common on other plants. Here's the down-low on those two:


Rust Fungus

Rust fungus is generally more common on outdoor plants, especially in humid or wet conditions, but it can also affect indoor plants like Monstera Deliciosa if the conditions are right. Here's what you need to know about rust fungus and how to deal with it:


What is Rust Fungus?

  • Appearance: Rust fungus manifests as small, rusty-orange, brown, or yellow spots or pustules on the undersides of leaves. These spots may eventually appear on the upper side as well, and they often cause the leaves to yellow or wilt.

  • Life Cycle: The fungus thrives in warm, moist environments. It spreads through spores that can be carried by wind, water, or even on gardening tools and hands.


Symptoms on Monstera Deliciosa

  • Discolored Spots: The most common sign is the appearance of small, raised, rust-colored spots or pustules on the leaves. These spots can spread and merge, causing larger areas of discoloration.

  • Leaf Yellowing: As the infection progresses, affected leaves may start to yellow and wilt.

  • Premature Leaf Drop: Severely infected leaves may fall off the plant prematurely.


Causes

  • High Humidity and Moisture: Rust fungus thrives in humid environments where the leaves remain wet for extended periods.

  • Poor Air Circulation: Lack of adequate airflow around the plant can contribute to the development and spread of rust fungus.


Prevention

  • Proper Watering: Water the plant at the base, avoiding wetting the leaves. Water in the morning so the leaves can dry out during the day.

  • Good Air Circulation: Ensure your Monstera is placed in an area with good air circulation. This can be helped by placing a fan nearby or ensuring there is space around the plant for air to move freely.

  • Humidity Control: Keep humidity levels in check. If you’re using a humidifier, make sure it’s not directly misting the leaves.

  • Sanitation: Regularly clean up fallen leaves or plant debris around your Monstera to prevent fungal spores from spreading.


Treatment

  • Remove Infected Leaves: Carefully cut away and dispose of any infected leaves. Do not compost these leaves as the fungus can survive and spread through the compost.

  • Fungicidal Spray: Apply a fungicide that is labeled for use against rust fungus. Follow the instructions carefully and reapply as needed.

  • Improve Conditions: After treating the plant, take steps to improve airflow and reduce humidity to prevent reinfection.


Monitoring

  • Regular Inspection: After treatment, regularly inspect the plant for any signs of recurring rust fungus. Early detection can make management easier.


Thrips

Thrips are tiny, slender insects that can cause significant damage to Monstera deliciosa and other houseplants. They are often known as the worst pest of all amoung houseplant enthusiasts, and I'll detail why below.


What Are Thrips?

  • Appearance: Thrips are tiny, about 1-2 mm long, and are often difficult to spot with the naked eye. They have slender bodies and can be yellow, brown, or black. Adults have wings, but they are not strong fliers, so they tend to move from plant to plant by crawling or being carried by the wind.

  • Life Cycle: Thrips undergo several stages in their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. They lay their eggs inside plant tissue, which hatch into larvae that feed on the plant. The entire life cycle can be completed in just a couple of weeks, allowing populations to explode quickly.


Symptoms of Thrip Infestation

  • Silvery or Bronze Discolouration: The most characteristic sign of thrip damage is a silvery or bronze discolouration on the leaves, caused by their feeding. They suck the contents out of plant cells, leaving behind empty cells that appear silvery or bleached.

  • Black Spots: Thrips excrete black specks of frass (insect waste), which can appear as tiny black dots on the leaves.

  • Deformed Leaves: Severe infestations can cause leaves to curl, distort, or become stunted.

  • Flower Damage: If your Monstera produces flowers, thrips may also feed on them, leading to damaged or deformed blooms.


Causes

  • Warm, Dry Conditions: Thrips thrive in warm, dry environments. Indoor plants, especially those near windows or heating vents, can be particularly susceptible.

  • Infested Plants: Thrips can be introduced to your Monstera through new plants, cuttings, or even from outside.


Prevention

  • Inspect New Plants: Always check new plants for signs of pests before bringing them indoors. Isolate new plants for a few weeks to ensure they are pest-free.

  • Increase Humidity: Since thrips prefer dry conditions, increasing humidity around your Monstera can help deter them. A humidity level of 60-70% is generally sufficient.

  • Regular Monitoring: Check your Monstera regularly for signs of thrips, especially on the undersides of leaves and in new growth areas.


Treatment

  • Isolate the Plant: If you notice thrips, move the affected Monstera away from other plants to prevent the infestation from spreading.

  • Wash the Leaves: Gently wash the leaves with a mixture of water and mild soap to remove thrips. Pay special attention to the undersides of the leaves and any crevices where thrips might hide.

  • Mineral Oil: Apply Mineral Oil to the plant. These treatments are effective against thrips but will require several applications - I recommend treating every single day (Yes, I know... but for every bug you wipe off today, another baby will mature and be ready for sucking the nutrients out tomorrow!)


As mentioned, Thrips undergo several stages in their life cycle so it's important to try and intercept this cycle and kill off mature bugs before they have the chance to lay fresh eggs and start again!


Cleaning and Maintenance

To prevent pests, I recommend cleaning monstera leaves often - it is also how the plant photosythesises and grows!

Either use the shower method discussed above, or use our Mineral Oil spray with a damp microfibre cloth and wipe down each leaf. Pruning old growth encourages new growth, and I’ve found that regularly removing older leaves helps my monstera stay big and bushy.




Repotting & Soil for your Monstera

Monstera deliciosa prefers well-draining soil that retains moisture without becoming waterlogged, plus has a stack of additives and nutrients. Our House Blend soil is perfect for this! You can also create your own blend using perlite, charcoal and orchid bark.


Pot Size

Use a pot only about an inch larger than the root ball. Repot every year or two if the plant is growing well, ideally in spring or summer to reduce stress on the plant. Because a large amount of the root focus is in the areal roots, you may notice that the roots in soil are not very large, therefore repotting often isn't always required.


Is it a fast grower?

Yes, Monstera deliciosa is known for its fast growth. Under ideal conditions, it can grow up to half a metre per year indoors. Factors like light, temperature, and humidity can impact its growth rate, with pruning encouraging even more growth.





Propagating Your Monstera

Propagating Monstera deliciosa is very easy. Here are a few methods:

  1. Water Propagation: Take a cutting with at least 2-3 leaves and 1-2 growth points (aerial roots/nodes), place it in water, and wait for roots to develop. Then transfer it to soil.

  2. Moss Propagation: Use a mix of damp sphagnum moss and perlite, place the cutting in the moss, and monitor root development. Transfer to soil once roots are several inches long.

  3. LECA Propagation: Similar to moss propagation, but using LECA. Roots develop quickly, and you can transfer them to soil once established.

  4. Division: If your monstera has multiple plants in one pot, you can divide them at the root level and pot them separately.


Fertilising your Monstera Deliciosa

To make sure your Monstera grows thick and strong, it's a good idea to fertilise monthly during the growing season (Spring & Summer) with a good liquid fertiliser - such as our Plant Coffee! Simply add a few drops in your watering can when you water - your plants will thank you for it!





Popular Variegated Varieties of Monstera Deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa 'Albo Variegata'

  • Appearance: Large, fenestrated leaves with white or cream-coloured patches. The variegation can range from small speckles to large sections of the leaf being entirely white.

  • Growth: Slower than the all-green Monstera due to the reduced chlorophyll in the white parts


Monstera deliciosa 'Thai Constellation'

  • Appearance: This variety has smaller, more evenly distributed speckles of creamy white across the leaves, resembling a starry sky, hence the name "Thai Constellation."

  • Growth: Like the 'Albo Variegata,' it grows slower than its non-variegated counterpart and needs similar care.

  • Availability: This variety is typically cultivated in labs and is more commonly available than the 'Albo Variegata,' but still considered rare and expensive.



Monstera deliciosa 'Aurea' (Yellow Variegated)

  • Appearance: This variety has yellow or light green variegation, which gives the plant a softer, more subtle appearance compared to the striking contrast of white variegation.

  • Growth: It has a similar growth pattern to other variegated Monsteras, with a slower rate of growth due to the reduced chlorophyll.

  • Rarity: The 'Aurea' variety is less common and can be more difficult to find.





Pet Safety: Are Monstera Deliciosa Toxic?

Yes, Monstera deliciosa leaves are toxic to both humans and pets. The plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause irritation if ingested. In humans, this can lead to mouth and throat irritation, swelling, difficulty swallowing, and digestive discomfort. Pets, particularly cats and dogs, may experience similar symptoms along with excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty breathing if they excessively chew on the plant.


However, the fruit of the Monstera deliciosa, is not toxic when it is fully ripe. In fact, it is edible and considered a delicacy in some parts of the world. The fruit has a unique tropical flavour, often described as a mix of pineapple, banana, and mango.


Another spanner in the works - the unripe fruit is toxic. The fruit is safe to eat only when it has ripened completely, indicated by the scales on the fruit falling off and the flesh becoming soft and sweet.


Troubleshooting your Monstera: Signs of an unhappy plant

Like most plants, the way your Monstera will tell you they are unhappy is through their leaves. So, how do you read the signs for what they want? I've written a whole seperate post to help you diagnose what could be the issue with your plant!




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